Monday, June 25, 2012

Lessons in Loneliness


            On the verge of flying back to the United States, an entire year out of college and an entire year away from the country, I am still sometimes amazed that I left the country for the year.  I do not know if anyone ever expected that of me, let alone if I ever realistically expected that of myself.  Leaving the country always seemed like a thing people much braver than me, people much less attached to people and physical things than me, and people much happier with much less than me, do.  Perhaps I envision them as such because to me those people do not seem vulnerable.  I know am vulnerable—I draw strength and energy from my friends and family.  I like living in a place that I have made my own.  Without those constants my footing is like that in a strong riptide:  One second solid and OK, the next second not evening being able to distinguish where my feet are.   Therefore I see little of myself in those voyagers.
            I knew that when I decided to go to Germany for the year—That I am a vulnerable and emotional person.  I look back on my decision process and I remember even saying things like, “I know it’ll be hard and a big adjustment, but I want to do it.”  I said those things so casually, like I was just saying them out of obligation, not like I really believed them.  I wonder if I had been able to transplant some of the emotions I have felt this year into my brain as a second semester senior in college, surrounded by more people who care about me than ever before, if I would have been so gun-ho.  It is, however, an undoubtedly very good thing I could not accurately foresee this year. 
            As another PPPler once summed up the year very well to me:  This year has been lessons in loneliness.  Never in my life have I ever spent so many moments by myself, alone in my head and with my own thoughts.  Except for those truly rare super-humans—the ones I imagine as the perpetual traveler—for most people an extended time away from your home country, culture and language strips away the footings you have built over the last decades of your life, paving the way for emotions you may never have felt before.   The new paved street also makes way for many positives, but I will get to that. 
I have been reflecting on this a lot in the recent weeks because of my own recent history and the fact that I have now been away from Elon for more than a year.  But also because of an article I read, written by a 2012 Yale Graduate.  This girl, Mariana, wrote for the Yale student newspaper and wrote a special feature discussing the “opposite of loneliness” she and her fellow graduates felt in their last weeks at Yale.  Mariana failed to find a word to describe this feeling and the right world fails me as well, but the meaning and implications are obvious:  It is like being constantly surrounded by a warm nest of soft blankets in the form of people you know and have shared a small, but deeply valuable, part of your life with.  At college everywhere you look are people who are all there, working at the university, for the sole purpose of educating you and your fellow students so you, too, can taste and experience success.  Then there are your advisers who you build personal relationships with, whom you show pictures of your adorable triplet cousins to and in front of whom you break down in tears the day before graduation.  And then there are the students.  I did not know the names of everyone I graduated with, but there was rarely a walk across campus without seeing someone I knew.  Then when I came “home” at the end of the night, roommates and friends surrounded me.  My nest was so warm and snug that there was barely any room for loneliness. 
Leaving Elon was like slowing taking away the first couple of layers from the nest and then flying to Germany was like ripping off several more, leaving me more exposed than ever before.  But.  I was never without some layers of my nest.   I now believe it was the firm existence of my nest that gave me the bravery to decide to “just go” for the year and do something I could not really understand.  My nest was built by 22 years of love and friendship and I knew that one year away—one measly year in hopefully a long life—would not change anything that I did not want changed.
In her article, Mariana, writes about her fears and worries about leaving her “opposite of loneliness” at Yale and having to take away layers just like I had to do this year and just like every graduate must do.  Tragically, though, Mariana will not experience this exposure, seeing as she died in a car crash shortly before graduation.  As a girl only a few months older than Mariana, a 22-year-old dying strikes a powerful fear in my heart.  I know little about Mariana’s death, but one thing that I have thought about since reading her article is that she died at one the highest happiness peaks of her life.  She will not need to feel the sadness and loneliness that comes with leaving the college nest.  In one respect, that is an enormous blessing. 
But fear is struck in my heart and my heart breaks for Mariana and her family because after this year I can say it was not only lessons in loneliness, but rather, lessons learned from loneliness.  Call me crazy, but loneliness is not a bad thing.  I cannot help but wonder if Mariana would have learned the lessons this next year as I have learned this past year.  Yes, loneliness brought me to tears and made me question why I wanted to do this year anyway.  So I wanted to learn German.  Well, I thought to myself, is this really worth it?  I made some wonderful friends fairly early in the year and I always had my PPP net (which is more valuable than I can express), but there were times when as soon as I stepped onto that tram to go back to Oberneuland (my neighborhood) and my host family’s house, the trap seemed to close again. 
It was about January when I finally could not stand it anymore and became so frustrated at what I labeled as lack of progress.  Sitting at the table in my host family’s kitchen with my mom eating breakfast the day before she left I broke into tears and could not stop crying for over an hour.   It was through that conversation with my mom I realized I was not the only one who had ever felt that way before.  Being lonely happens.  After my mom flew home and I was faced with the reality that I still had six months in Germany and that it was up to me to make those months good, I began to realize that maybe I had been focusing on the wrong things.  Sure, I was lonely, no question.  I had much too much free time on my hands and my social calendar could not hold a flame to my life at Elon, but I began to realize, that is not necessarily bad.  And these feelings were not exclusively mine!  I began to really realize that what my friends at home had expressed was also loneliness and even though I already knew and appreciated that, it made me realize that I was not failing at my year abroad.  To fail means to first have set standards of achievement.  I will admit I had a few of those, but in hindsight I was so foolish to do so.  Success is not a calculable number, not in this scenario.  I was trying to put a quantitative value on something that hardly even fits into such categories.  I realized, one can’t just do that to oneself!  Loneliness is a very normal emotion and if you go through life expecting never to feel it, then you are going to hit a bottom that is a lot harder than that moment where you cry to your mom over your bread and marmalade for an hour. 
That is what I have learned this year.  That is what is loneliness has taught me:  You deal with it.  You have those moments where you want to crawl in bed and fall asleep because then no one will care that your social calendar has large gaps of unplanned time.  Sure you give in sometimes and just go to sleep, but for me that could only happen so many times before I realized that I was hiding, trying to find those pieces of my nest that were unreachable, because they were in the US. 
I would not say that I do not have moments where I am still lonely.  Of course I do.  But now I gained a perspective that only comes with time and honest talks with those you trust.  When I arrived on August 1, 2011 in Frankfurt I had only experienced a little bit of loneliness in my life.  I had no idea what I was facing, but I will say it again,  here I am.  I made it through.  I think my biggest tool in fighting loneliness has been the strength to not give in, the perspective to revaluate and the wear-with-all to just keep going.  Emotions are extremely strong, but they do not control us.  We have power to affect our own happiness, you just need to figure out what it is that makes you happy.
These are characteristics are innate in people; I am not particularly special because I am abroad and have been thousands of miles away from my family and friends.  I mean, heck, I could be a whole lot farther from the US and in a much tougher country to live in.  These characteristics just need to be found.  I sincerely wonder what sort of loneliness I would have felt this year without making the separation larger and, even more, I wonder how long it would have taken me to learn these lessons.  This is exactly why I keep thinking of Mariana and her tragically cut-short life.  Twenty-two years is not long enough to learn the lessons that make people wise.  I know now, more than ever, that I still have much to learn.  I cannot even begin to imagine what I have left to learn.  But I genuinely encourage people if they want to learn something and want to be challenged, go abroad.  You might not like the lessons and you might not like the teaching styles, but through those crazy roller coaster moments and stomach-flipping bends and curves, you are learning.  I promise you, you are learning. 

Monday, June 18, 2012

Weekends


(This post was written almost a month ago with the intention of being posted much sooner.  With that caveat...enjoy.)
            Throughout this year I have realized that I may finally be ready to be a real person and work at a real job.  You know, the kind of job where I get paid and will actually get that extremely adult thing called health insurance not provided by your dad.  I have actually experienced moments where finding a full-time job excites me, but what still depresses me is the work schedule.   Why can´t life just be a series of awesome weekends?  Would we not all just be a little happier in that world?  OK, so I will admit, work should and hopefully does for many bring a sort of satisfaction.  And for those people I would be willing to make a deal:  4 day work weeks and 3 day weekends.  In that world Hump Day (Wednesday for those of you who are not aware of its real name) would not even need to exist!  It could also take a break and not even need to be a whole day:  Hump Day would be more like „sleeping Tuesday night,“ and since sleeping is almost everyone’s favorite activity, that sounds like a good world.
            So, why am I even thinking of those things?  Well, simply because from the end of April to the middle of May I had such a solid series of weekends.  Work had been categorically stressful (and became even more so at the end of the month) with the different projects for Christel and Frauke, but each week I was pulled through by the thought that before long I´d be escaping that stress for two or more days and enjoying a real weekend.   On to my first weekend...
            During the last weekend in April I took a night train from Bremen to Saarbrücken, which is the capital of the province Saarland and also almost directly on the French border.  This area was where my German class in 2005 did our exchange, so as I rode the train to Saarbrücken I actually recognized many train station names.  It was neat to be in that area six years later and, just as I had remembered, the natural beauty of that area is its gem.  I was very excited for this weekend because my good friend from the language school phase (and with whom I’ve traveled several times), Morgan, has been in Saarbrücken since October.  As you may remember, most PPPlers moved in October to their final placement.
            Since I took an over-night train to save money and time, Morgan met me at the train station and we went directly to a cafe for breakfast, probably my favorite meal.  This was no ordinary breakfast, though—This cafe has pancakes.  I have never mentioned it, but one of the foods I have been continually wanting this entire year is a nice, fluffy, buttermilk pancake with maple syrup on top.  It is funny to me that I miss them so much considering all of the incredible food Europe has to offer and which I have more than happily eaten.  But anyway, this pancake, unfortunately, did not exactly fit my preferred description, but with its freshly cute fruit and honey drizzled on top, I had very little to complain about. 
            Morgan and I spent the rest of the day poking around Saarbrücken, shopping even though we shouldn’t have, and preparing for Ginny’s, another friend from language school who lives in Mainz (south of Frankfurt), 21st birthday celebration. 
            After a great evening eating with Morgan’s lovely host family (who are actually Polish, but have lived in Germany for over 20 years) and a really fun night with Morgan’s super fun Saarbrücken friends, we went to work early on Saturday on our birthday preparations.  One of the drawbacks of living with a host family or in an apartment that is equipped for the non-cooks of the world, getting to bake fun, interesting looking recipes is not a usual occurrence.  For that reason, Morgan and I happily volunteered to make the cupcakes for Ginny.  Per usual, given the different ingredients, the cupcakes did not taste just as we had hoped, but they did look pretty dang awesome, with their green, blue, red and yellow batters.  As I often want to tell German homeowners when I walk into their „white and white and white all-over houses,“ more color is rarely a bad thing.  These cupcakes fit the bill. J
            Seeing as this Saturday was the first day over 70 degrees I had experienced since September, the train without air condition was less than a comfortable ride, but despite everything we made it to Mainz, ready for a good birthday party and the food Ginny had promised to prepare.  An hour later and three PPPlers more, the party was started and we spent an extremely enjoyable evening in Mainz outside, bar-hopping and sitting on the Rhein.  Spring in Germany is just about the most wonderful thing about this country.
            Late Sunday I caught a ride back to Bremen, sad that the best weekends go so fast, but already looking forward to the next weekend adventure.
            Five days later I was back on the German train system riding southwest to Aachen, in North Rhein-Westphalia.  Aachen is where our first exchange student, Friederike’s, brother is studying, and since he offered to show me around NRW, I jumped on the chance! 
            Despite the continual rain the entire weekend, it was easy to see that Aachen is a very charming, small city.  There is still a considerable amount of older German architecture and I simply really enjoyed the city layout.  The “old city“ is much larger than Bremen’s and almost everything can be reached by foot.  There is also a natural water spring in Aachen that, like most water springs in Germany, is popular for its healthy qualities.  Christian, my host, told me that Aachen’s name was almost changed to Bad Aachen (pretty much the equivalent of naming it Spa Aachen), but the town voted against it because then the town would lose its first-place alphabetical position in lists!  If I wanted my PPP friends and I could analyze that to the last detail for German idiosyncrasies, but I won’t, because I like Germans. J
            The cathedral in Aachen is also well worth the visit and I was personally astounded by the intricate mosaic that dominates the interior.  In almost every German town the standard things to do are, go to the church and climb the highest point in the town.  Since I have seen numerous German cities, I have seen plenty of cathedrals, but I found Aachen’s cathedral particularly stunning, from outside and inside. 
            Later that day we went to the “drei Ländereck,“ which is where the Netherlands, Belgium and Germany share a border.  This point is also, amusingly, the highest point in the Netherlands at something like 300 meters above sea level.  I have said before that Northern Germany is that flattest place I have ever been, but lest I forget, the Netherlands also shares this rather honorary distinction.  One thing that I particularly love about Europe is the preservation of cultures and traditions of each country.  It is no exaggeration when I say that as soon as we crossed into the Netherlands the architecture of the buildings changed and look distinctly different from Germany.  The same goes for Belgium.  Needless to say, these differences are simply charming. 
            That weekend we also visited Maastricht, a city in the Netherlands (whose architecture was so similar to Amsterdam’s) and also went to Julich, where we visited a fort from post-Renaissance Germany and finally to Cologne.  Just like the good tourist I am, I climbed every step to the top of (one of) the cathedrals famously high and ornately Gothic steeple.   The cathedral from inside was not as I would have expected it, considering only the day before Aachen’s had blown me away, but the outside is the real treasure.  There is a clear reason why this architecture is world-renowned.
            Like every weekend, I had to end up back in Bremen at some point and was happy to do so.  However, every time I leave my little northwest corner I realize yet again how much Germany has to offer and what beauty is hidden in every corner.  Aachen and the land around are wonderful examples of what treasures are hidden in Germany, even at its last corners.
            Now, finally to my last weekend.  Since I would imagine you are a little tired of reading and I am definitely over typing this blog, I will quickly summarize my perfect little canoeing weekend:
            My friend Sophie grew up in the part of Bremen called the “Blockland,” which is the area that was historically turf fields and farm.  This area is so incredibly beautiful and each time I am there I am continually amazed this wonderful oasis lies so close to the bustle and crowd of Bremen.  Two weekends ago Sophie and I did a canoeing course and trip hosted by the canoeing club next to her house and the restaurant her family owns.  After a Saturday of paddling instruction (I had no idea it was so complicated!), we had a 27 kilometer (16 mile) boat tour on Sunday.  The excitement and energy Sophie and I started with was long gone by the time we got to the 20th kilometer, but eventually we finished the breathtakingly beautiful canoe tour on the Wümmel and through the turf canals, and then promptly rewarded ourselves with organic ice cream from a neighboring farm. 
            With all the traveling I am blessed to do, it is sometimes easy to forget what wonders Bremen has to offer.  Just today I went swimming in a lake, which is essentially in the middle of Bremen, but somehow maintains its peace and tranquility.  This is just one of the few reasons I have become so fond of Bremen and, as my traveling has shown me, these treasures are to be found all over Germany.